Throughout this step by step DIY Tutorial, I will be showing you guys how to make an Altoids Tin Pouch out of paracord. Altoids Tins are used by outdoors-man all around the world to house as many survival or first aid components as possible. They’re PERFECT for a tiny little survival/or first aid kit. So what better than to wrap it in paracord using a super sweet pouch!
A slot: The A slot is any outside slot found on the border.
B slot: The B slot is any inside slot found on the border.
Border: The border is the Gold Solomon Bar we braided in steps 2 – 4.
Center Box/Zoomed Image: The center box is a zoomed in box which shows closer, more detailed images. They occasionally shows up in the center of the diagram throughout several steps.
Diagram: The diagram is the whole image itself, with the different quadrants or sections (parts) inside of it.
Foundation Cords: The foundation cords are the from the marker line down towards the loop. The foundation cords will be what we are braiding around to form the border of the paracord pouch.
Horizontal Weaves/Threads: The horizontal weaves are the weaves that go from the left of the pouch to the right and vise versa.
Left Working Cord: The left working cord is the current cord that is on the left side of the foundation cords. Notice, once the left working cord is transferred over to the right side, it becomes the right working cord, and vise versa.
NOTICE: A notice simply presents a tip, or suggestion on how to go about a certain step or part.
Options/Alternative Methods: Options represent alternative ways to achieve the particular part or step.
Part: A part represents a sectioned off portion of the overall diagram.
Right Working Cord: The right working cord is the current cord that is on the right side of the foundation cords. Notice, once the right working cord is transferred over to the left side, it becomes the left working cord, and vise versa.
Step: A step represents the step itself. There’s 13 steps overall in this DIY Tutorial on how to make a paracord pouch for an Altoids tin.
Vertical Weaves/Thread: The vertical weaves are the weaves that go from the top of the pouch to the bottom and vise versa.
Working Cords: Working cords are the cords you’re currently working with. Weather you’re weaving, threading or braiding with a specific cord, that is considered a working cord.
Tools and Material:
- 20′ 550 cord Color 1
- 20′ 550 cord Color 2
- Altoids Tin
Follow the step by step tutorial below to make your own Paracord Pouch.
- Take your 20 feet of paracord and fold it directly in half to get the center point.
- Position the center point on the side of the Altoids Tin like shown in the diagram. Leave the loop about 1/2″ – 1″ past the top of the tin to leave room for carabiners and clips to attach to.
- Wrap the cords around the Altoids Tin forming a “U” shape around the tin with the paracord.
- You should have something that looks like image 4 in the diagram.
- Find a good spot to do your braiding. Position your paracord like shown in part 1 of the diagram. Everything below the marker line (foundation cords) is going to stay fixed, while we take the paracord above the marker line and braid it around the paracord below the line (foundation cords).
- Like you see in part 2 of the diagram, thread your left working cord under the foundation cords over to the right side.
- Now you’re going to take your initial right working cord (which should be on-top, on the right side), and thread it underneath the cord that was just brought over from the left side, and continue it underneath the foundation cords.
- Continue to thread initial right working cord up through the loop like shown in part 4 of the diagram.
- You should now have your first Solomon Bar stitch and a new left and right working cords. They flipped sides!
- Thread your new right working cord under the foundation cords from right to left.
- Now take your left working cord and thread it under the cord that was just brought from the right side. Continue threading the cord over the foundation cords to the right side.
- Continue the working cord from part 2 up and through the loop like shown in part 3 of the diagram.
- After you’ve got about 5 or so stitches you’re going to want to tighten the Solomon bar up. Like shown in part 4 of the diagram, you’re going to hold the foundation cords with one hand while pushing up the braids with the other.
- Now you are going to want to check if it fits properly around the Altoids tin like shown in part 1 of the diagram. Notice: If you left enough room with the loop, and need to thread a few extra braids to make it a little longer, than you can add a few to do so.
- Grab some sharp scissors and cut off the working ends. Notice: It’s easier to do part 2 and part 3, one side at a time.
- Using a lighter, lite the end where you just cut for 5-10 seconds or until it’s molten hot. Using your thumb (careful!) smooth out the molten ends of the working cords, making sure their melted into the surrounding cord. Notice: If you want, you can lick your finger or dip it in water before touching the molten hot plastic : ).
- You should then end up with what you see here in part 4.
- For this step you’re going to grab your Altoids Tin and attach your Paracord Fid needle (if you don’t have one, they are real cheap on Amazon.com).
- Position the border you’ve just made around the Altoids Tin with the loop at the top right (like shown in the diagram).
- Notice: The closeup box diagram in the center shows the two different slots we will be working with. Slot A and slot B. The majority of the weaving and threading will be done through the A slot.
- In this step we will be using the B slot. I chose to use the B slot to better hide the knot on the inside of the pouch. Options: 1- You can either thread the needle from the outside of the pouch, to the inside (and take off the needle and tie a knot), OR 2- you can just attach your needle once, tie a knot at the end of the paracord, and thread it from the inside of the pouch to the outside. Again, through the B slot.
- If you followed the pictures in the diagram, and went with option 1 in the part 1 of this step, then you should detach your needle and tie a knot now.
- If you haven’t already, re-attach your needle and carry it across the Altoids Tin and thread it through an A slot in the opposite corner, back around and through the adjacent A slot. You can see a detailed diagram of this in the center box.
- Now you’re going to carry your needle across the Altoids Tin once again and thread it through the next available A slot adjacent to where you started.
- Continue weaving back and forth across the Altoids Tin.
- Part 1 of the diagram is simply showing you what it should look like after 2 passes across the Altoids Tin with your paracord.
- Continue weaving back and forth until you’ve reached the top of the Altoids Tin and there’s no A slots left on the side without the loop.
- If you think you need one more horizontal thread but have no more A slots left to come back through, you can simply go right around and back towards the other side like shown here in part 1 of the diagram.
- Like shown here in part 2 of the diagram, you’re going to thread your cord through the inside of the border (Solomon Bar), out to the opposite side of the pouch. This part enables you to begin your horizontal weaves on the opposite side of the pouch while keeping the cord tucked hidden inside the pouch.
- You should now be able to thread your cord through the first A slot on the other side of the pouch. Shown here in part 1.
- Like in step 6 you’re going to continue weaving more horizontal weaves back and forth across the pouch. Remembering to go through the A slot (outside slot).
- Weave back and forth until you reach the bottom of the pouch, with no A slots left on the side of the pouch (we’ll need the bottom slots for our vertical weaves).
- Once you’ve got your cord back on the inside we are going to start our vertical weaving. It’s quite simple: over > under > over > under.
- Once you get to the top you should end up with something like seen here in part 2.
- Now you’re going to straighten out and tighten the vertical weave. Notice the different in part 2 and part 3.
- Like shown in the zoomed image, loop your cord back around and begin weaving down back towards the bottom of the pouch.
- Like shown in part 1, we are sticking with the A slot. Come out through the A slot once you have woven all the way to the bottom of the pouch.
- Now back around and through another A slot, heading back up towards the top of the pouch.
- You will now continue to weave your vertical weaves up and down until you’ve woven successfully from right to left and have run completely out of A slots.
- Part 1 will show you where the needle should be exiting the pouch. The red arrow also matches the red arrow in part 2 and part 3.
- Flip the pouch over and you should now be looking at what’s shown here in part 2. Begin to insert the paracord fid needle in through the center of the Solomon bar, threading it through the two foundation cords.
- There’s multiple ways to go about this. At the time, this is what I came up with. Follow closely. Alternative Method: Thread through the middle, around both foundation cords (not through the middle of them) and then back out through the middle of the Solomon Bar. Then thread through the A slot from outside to inside, making it ready to begin weaving.
- Part 4 is a closeup diagram of part 3.
- If it helps you to have the Altoids Tin in place when weaving, now is the time to put it back in.
- Before you place your Altoids Tin back inside, your paracord pouch should look like what’s shown here in part 1.
- Thread your working cord up to the top of the pouch.
- Now thread your cord back down to the bottom of the pouch.
- Here’s a closeup of what the transition looks like. Out of an A slot, back in through an A slot.
- Continue weaving up and down the paracord pouch until you’ve reached the other side of the Altoids Tin and have run out of A slots.
- Thread your working cord through the last A slot available on the bottom of your paracord pouch.
- Cut the working cord as close to the pouch as you can without letting it slip back through.
- Like in step 4, using a lighter, lite the end where you just cut for 5-10 seconds or until it’s molten hot. Using your thumb (careful!) smooth out the molten ends of the working cord, making sure it’s melted into the surrounding cord. Notice: If you want, you can lick your finger or dip it in water before touching the molten hot plastic : ).
- You should have something that looks like what’s shown here in part 4.